| What you need | Products | Who it is for |
|---|---|---|
| Type 2 to Type 2 | 209 | Almost every car registered since about 2014 |
| Type 2 to Type 1 | 15 | Older electric cars and vans with a five pin inlet |
| Three pin granny chargers | 5 | Charging from an ordinary domestic socket at 2.3 kW |
| Bags, cases and brackets | 6 | Storing a cable that lives in a boot or a garage |
Three cables, and one of them is yours
Almost every charging question comes down to which connector is on your car. Get that right and the rest follows easily.
The table is the fastest route in. If your car was registered in the last decade it almost certainly takes Type 2, so go straight there and find your make.
What actually separates one {M} from another
The home figures below assume the single phase supply a British house actually has, and its 7.4 kW ceiling.
Connector first, then amps, then length. The connector is fixed by your car and cannot be adapted around. The amp rating follows from what the car will accept: ask for 32 amps unless the car is one of the older plug-in hybrids held near 3.7 kW, in which case 16 amps is the correct and cheaper order. The length is the only one of the three that depends on your driveway rather than your car.
That order matters because people usually approach it backwards, starting with a length and a price. A ten metre lead with the wrong head on it is no use at all, and a 32 amp lead on a car that draws 16 buys nothing but weight.
What the model pages tell you that a cable listing usually does not
Every vehicle page here states four things: the inlet, what the car actually draws from a British single phase supply rather than what its brochure claims, which flank and which end the charge socket sits on, and how long a full charge really takes. Where a manufacturer has not published something, we say so rather than inferring it.
That last point matters more than it sounds. Several cars in this catalogue are widely listed elsewhere at charging rates they cannot reach, and a few have their charge socket described on the wrong side of the car. Both mistakes cost the customer a cable.
Working out the length
A length is easy to get right and annoying to get wrong. Measure from the charge point to where the flap will be, allow for routing round a wheel rather than under it, and round up.
What you are actually buying
The construction is common to the whole range, whatever your car: IP67 sealed connectors, tinned copper cores, a flexible outer jacket rated for British winters, a two year warranty and free next working day delivery.
Start with the Type 2 range if your car is recent, or the Type 1 range if it is not.
Choosing an EV charging cable
How do I know which connector my car has?
Open the flap and count the pins. Five in a round housing is Type 1; seven with a flat top edge is Type 2. Almost every car registered since about 2014 is Type 2.
Should I buy a 16A or a 32A cable?
32A for any car that takes 6.6 kW or more, which is most of them. 16A is correct and cheaper for older plug-in hybrids capped near 3.7 kW.
What is the fastest a car can charge at home?
About 7.4 kW. That is 32 amps on a single phase, which is what a British home charge point gives.
Do I need a three phase cable?
Only if you use 22 kW public AC posts and your car can take that rate. At home a three phase lead is no faster than a single phase one.
Which length should I order?
Ten metres suits most British driveways. Five metres where the charge point sits beside the socket, fifteen or twenty for a garage unit with the car parked outside.
Shortcuts: the Type 2 to Type 2 charging cable for most cars, the universal cables that fit any car with that connector, and 3 pin granny chargers for a 13A socket.